![]() For your color concerns maybe you could airbrush your parts because of the huge range of colors, but I haven't tried that yet, I have only used spray paint which for black wheels works great with a dull coat. I do believe SLA printing might be our future though the brittle parts maybe SLA's downfall for drivers and side rods, other things my work such as handrails, lights/lamps, maybe track( no moving parts), and TLG parts that are getting super expensive on BL. I ended up drilling through the pinhole to get the right size which is a delicate operation and I drilled halfway through the axel whole for less friction. I agree with 991, the tolerances needed for track and wheels is important, even when printing my NYC Niagara XXL(ish not tested for size) there was a lot of sanding needed to the pin and axel hole. and I want to support the businesses as they keep this hobby developing. I do respect and value the quality of the design work that’s been put into the available products from BT and BTD etc. (3) Designing a part is a lot of work to get exactly right from design and functional aspects. (2) SLA printers use resin which is brittle and not as strong as ABS plastic that the commercial printing services have Eg with SLA, it’s down to the color of the resin which offset value you need to use (1) It takes a lot of effort to get the manufacturing tolerances exactly right so that the parts clutch together. However, I do not intend to reduce the usage of Bricktracks and BrickTrainDepot and other manufacturers for the following reasons: You see images on my Flickr account below. I have been 3D printing parts with my SLA printer for a while.Į.g. I may post some Xl and XXL drivers and r88, 104, and 120 me models like track on Thingiverse.įeel free to comment or share your experiences. Still, I would rather get injection-molded tracks of BT and the vast selection of Trix, but this is still a pretty sweet deal. Or if you are like me and don't want to spend big bucks on injection molded or highly developed tracks and just want something cheap and easy for your display, even if it's not perfect, try this. Overall if you see no reason to spend on $150 high radius curves just to try them or if your wife hates you for buying $1000 of r120 curves from Bricktracks try this see what happens maybe you want to have higher quality. And lastly, TLG has taken down many designs for some reason. Also some designs are not tested or lower quality and it is not fun when a librarian gives you the stick eye because you have been printing 1/8 r120 circle every day for the past week(has not happened.yet). But there are downsides, most libraries only let you print while they are open meaning you can only print a few pieces at a time with high quality(which may take a looooong time) or you will have to go for volume with low quality. Yes I know trixbrix and bricktracks you are probably mad. ![]() I have not printed any of the above files so I am not sure if the geometry works out. The designer also makes 9v r120 and PF/PU r104 I am hoping libraries will open back up soon. I was just about to start an NYC Niagra then the Corona happened so I don't have all of my wheels from my library printer. If there is a course to use it, then take it because nothing can beat high-quality 3d prints for free. So I suggest call some library and ask if you can use their 3d printer. Encluding r56, 72, 88, 104, and even 120 track even some of the in-between. I have been looking around for a solution to 3d printed stuff and I have seen the $300-$500 SLA printers that retrieve fantastic detail, though I found out that now most local libraries have 3d printers, some being top of the line, printing parts for little to no cost to us.Īlso, I have learned THINGAVERCE has some great lego compatible options for preexisting files. ![]() I know this hobby has been greatly influenced by 3d printed parts, from side rods to track even our wheels have been 3d printed. ![]()
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